Sunday, July 29, 2007

The Class Reunion Dress, Part II

So, yesterday I cut out the lining and sewed it up sans facings, hems and zipper. Since my high bust is 40, I cut an 18. But in looking at the front pattern pieces, it says a size 18 means the front will actually measure 46. I thought 6 inches was a lot of ease. But I cut that size anyway. I can always take it in.

Here it is on Annie. Not spectacular. Problem: I have no sewing buddy (cats don't count, right?) and since it zips up the back, I can't close the back up. Therefore, I can't feel the fit properly. And remember, I haven't sewn a dress ever. So I can't really tell how it's suppose to fit. If you enlarge the picture a bit, you'll see a small bust dart on the princess seam. Cool.

I'm thinking that I can always take the seams in. It won't be alot, but some. I just couldn't tell without someone helping me.

So, I proceeded to cut the fashion fabric. Remember, it's linen/cotton and a nice weight. Now the first piece I cut was the front on the fold. I was amazed when I was done, that I seemed to have fussy cut a spray of embroidered flowers right down the center. This has happened before with quilting, but gosh!! I cut the two center back pieces at this same time.

After the look of the front, I was more careful cutting the side fronts. I actually cut them seperately. I was able (because I bought extra fabric anticipating shrinkage) to get a nice spray of smaller flowers flowing down the side fronts. I also made sure (tried to, at least) that I didn't have any embroidery where I wouldn't want it. Like the nipple-zone and the front armhole where my arms would rub wearing it, etc.

I sewed side fronts to center front. I sewed side backs to each back piece. Then I thought I would NOT sew the side seams and shoulder seams until after I had inserted the invisible zipper. I thought it would be easier maniuplating the fabric if I just had two back pieces and not the front to mangle around like a gorilla trying to unzip it's suit off!

I remember reading many posts on Pattern Review where the seamstress would consult Power Sewing - Step By Step by Sandra Betzina to insert the invisible zipper and they all had great results. So, that's what I did, too. At least, I hope that's the reference book!

Now to go and sew it in. *gulp*...stayed tuned for Part III.

Oh, and thank you for all the comments on my last post. Remember, I'm all ears!


OP Gal said...

You can do it! You're doing great so far. :-)

Marji said...

check out Kathleen Fasanella for the way to best finish the facing to the zipper. Or Els tutorial.
Links are on my Butterick sheath dress review if you don't have them. Sorry, but my laptop with all my links is down (that McAfee bug - can you believe it - the Virus protection had a bug!!)

Remember the whole discussion we had re sizes when you were making your jacket? You had the best results when you started from a 14 if I recall correctly. If you Must start with a larger pattern, start with a 16 - but an 18 is going to be soooo large through the neck opening, and armscye, areas you can't take in, that you're much better off starting smaller.
Make a muslin, (or toile if you prefer that terminology) for a few garments until you can believe me on this - k?